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How to grade a pattern...

No you don't need expensive software, grading can be done with pen and paper.   Lucky I was paying attention at college!

No you don't need expensive software, grading can be done with pen and paper.   Lucky I was paying attention at college!

Grading is changing a pattern's size.  I've been grading my pattern for the Mitchell Mitchell Shift Dress from a size 3 to a size 4 and 5.  For my grading, I'm using a Burda measurement chart, because I like their fit.

My measurement charts shows that on average, 3 to 5 year old kids are shooting up and expected to grow 6 cm in height each year.  They don't get a lot wider - ie. their chest measurement increases just 1 cm for each year/size.

Just enough genuine sixties fabric in my Mum's garage to make this trio of dresses to check my patterns... 

Just enough genuine sixties fabric in my Mum's garage to make this trio of dresses to check my patterns... 

So I've traced  the original size 3 pattern onto paper and am making a "nest" of 3 sizes, by adding the increments from the measurement chart.  I scanned my handdrawn grading and traced around patterns in Illustrator to neaten them up. A quick trip back to Officeworks and I have my patterns printed full size.

Last step was to make up my patterns in the 3 sizes to check pattern pieces sew together well.