Here's the wedding dress I made after Lee sent me the photo in the previous post...

Apparently you don't have to be a 20-something model to look thoroughly sweet on your wedding day!

So... my friend Lee is getting married next year and sends me this picture of the sort of dress she'd like me to make...

There are just a couple of teeny tiny hitches though.  Not to be unkind, but Lee does not have the figure of this girl.  As she is approaching a good six decades in age, I think we'll settle for the idea of a white dress and a black lace coat with a train and go from there!

I made my own wedding dress, heavily supervised by my college instructor, but aside from that I've never tackled a wedding dress before.  I enlist the help of sewing superstars Susan Khalje and Alison Smith.  You can too, by buying their Craftsy courses. 

While it will cost you thousands of dollars to be in the right location and take personal classes with these lovely ladies, for a mere $53 AUD, I've purchased about 20 hours of online tuition.  (Keep an eye on Craftsy for their many sales, especially around American events like Black Friday sales in late November).

These fascinating courses cover the dark arts of couture sewing and handling lace and I'm enjoying them immensely.

Will  see how we go!

Here's my entry in the Australian Sewing Guild's Castaway to Couture contest, where sewists upcycle garments.  I love this sort of thing as I'm fascinated by the Make Do and Mend mentality that was governmental policy in Britain during the Second World War.  

The British government went so far as to introduce a range of Utility Clothing labelled CC41 (CC for controlled commodities and 41 for the year it was introduced -1941).  Figuring it would be more economical to produce a limited range of designs, they enlisted well known designers like Hardy Amies and Norman Hartnell to submit styles.  I've collected some of these utilitarian  1940s dresses on this pinterest page.

My make do and mend dress started out as 2 men's dress shirts, the nicest quality ones I could find. (Tips:  look for all cotton rather than synthetics, check for French seams (overlocked seams spell cheaply made to me!) and check for fading behind the pockets, as they'll likely be removed.)

Clockwise from top left:  Pink mens dress shirt with sleeves removed.  The original blue mens shirt.  Pinning out excess on front bodice.  Pinning geometric tucks in back.  Belt and added side pockets with original pocket on blue shirt retained. Scraps of pink shirt.  Remains of blue shirt.  Main pic:  One sturdy, hard-wearing, long-lasting Utility Shirt Dress!

Here's how we did it.

1.  Lopped off sleeves on pink shirt.

2. On Flora Dora, my trusty mannequin, I pinned the front bodice of the pink shirt to create some more feminine curves.  Those big square boyish pockets had to go too. 

3.  On the back, I opted for some pin tucks to add shape.  The big triangular shapes kind of remind me of Art Deco geometrics, for a bit of a retro feel!  

4.  Swapped out the buttons from the blue shirt as they were a nicer quality.  CC41 clothes, by the way, restricted the number of buttons on a dress to just a maximum of 3!

5.  Alas, when I took off the sleeves of the blue shirt, I was left with a wierd shape to work with.  To keep my dress a nice 40s midi length, I drafted some side pockets, which allowed me to use more of the shirt body and retain a nice pocket at the same time.

Can you see how the armpit of the shirt was cut away and replaced with a side pocket.  I used the pink shirt sleeve for the pocket facing.

6.  Drafted a new side seam for the skirt using a block (cardboard template) that I keep on hand.  Added some basting to the blue shirt/skirt to fit skirt to bodice.

7.  An old korbond Make a Belt kit that I found at the op-shop made a handsome belt (despite the fact most of the iron-on glue was gone!) I particularly love the covered buckle.

I always purchase any belt kits I find at op-shops as I've never seen them available anywhere else

8.  An overlocker is a magical investment for neatening up the inside of a garment.  It covers up a multitude of sewing sins!  

Sturdy finishes on the inside make a long wearing garment!

Only you see the inside of your garment, so make it look nice because (as the L'Oreal ads say) you're worth it!

Do your friends regard the opening of birthday gifts as a party activity in it's own right? Some of mine do.  It's fun to ooh and aah over pressies as the birthday girl opens them, but gifts can sometimes look a bit Scottish!  At a recent birthday present unveiling I was seeing Royal Doulton among the brand names and calculating price tags as anything up to $100.  Sorry, my piggy bank doesn't hold that much!

Let's see...fabric $12, D rings $3, 2 hours labour at $60 per hour, that adds up to quite a pricey gift!

Hunted high and low for a bee print for my bee-keeper buddy!

Fortunately, if you're a bit crafty, you can still get some oohs and aahs with far less cash and just a little time and effort.  These aprons were made by using my husband's very ratty BBQ apron as a template. The cash register may not have registered very much in buying the materials, but when you take into account the love that went into making them, their value transcends mere money!

Looking for last minute Christmas gifts to sew?  If you're looking for heirlooms that took months to create, better look elsewhere.  All these projects can be knocked over in a single crafternoon!

Made from thrift shop twill fabric, vintage button and vintage lace using the Swinging 60s Shift pattern

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Leather hairbands sew up in a jiffy.  Try Megan Nielsens free Boab hairband pattern

Go Italian, with faux pasta using felt or scraps of material.  Serve up in empty spaghetti sauce jars with toy kitchenware.  Try here for a selection of pasta party ideas.

Books for kids serve double duty by improving reading skills.  Package your offerings in handmade book bags.  I made mine extra cute with contrasting casings and tabs on the ends of the drawstrings.  I measured books and made my own bags, but  these instructions look quite similar!

Aussies with their "trust everyone!" way of life need a safe place for their passports when travelling.  A lot of the shop-bought passport holders are very ugly.  Sew up your own for travelling friends.  I kind of made it up as I sewed, but here's a tutorial for something similar.

At our local Tip Shop I recently bought a 1979 Bernina 830 for the princely sum of $15.  I wasn't permitted to even plug it in to see if it worked, but it looked in great condition so I took a risk. With a new light bulb and circuit board in the foot pedal ($173) my local repairman says it should last another couple of decades. 

Now, new machines would cost the same price, so why go vintage?   Berninas have always been popular for schools and colleges - you know a machine is sturdy if 13 year old boys can't break them! This machine hums along with the sound of Made-In-Switzerland precision that my former, brand-new $500 machine (that died after just 8 years) never ever had.

If you're in the market for an older machine, perhaps for financial reasons, or maybe, like me you just want some old-fashioned quality, here are my tips:-

*  Go online and find reviews for the model you're looking at.  I found great reviews for old Bernina, Husqvarna, Pfaff, Kenmore and Janome machines.

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Amazing 30 year warranty - to last a lifetime and even hand down to your children.  Machine instruction manual complete with stitch samples.

* My machine came with the original 30 year warranty form and instruction manual full of samples sewn by the original owner.  If your manual is missing, try searching online for a downloadable version.

* See your machine in person or at least ask it's owner to video it to test some basic functions. Check it runs smoothly without any clanking or odd noises. Change the needle, wind and insert a bobbin, thread up and stitch.  Try backstitching, zigzag and the buttonhole process - the essentials for dressmaking.  Ask which presser feet come with the machine and look for scratches or surface damage.

*  Befriend a good machine repairman.  I've been saved from a pointless purchase with just a quick phonecall  to ask advice.

Good luck!  Remember spending thousands of dollars on a sewing machine won't necessarily make you a better dressmaker.  Enjoy the satisfaction of a great recycled machine.  You can spend up on fabric instead, with a self-righteous lack of guilt!
 

You may have noticed that my last four homegrown patterns have been inspired by Erin McKean's field guide to iconic dresses titled "The Hundred Dresses." 

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Excerpt from The Hundred Dresses

The latest addition to the Clothesline Patterns collection is a really simple to sew raglan sleeve T-Shirt Dress pattern.

Jewellery from Stacy Miller's Feather & Oak range.

I learned to sew with woven fabrics at age 11 but for decades studiously avoided stretch sewing.  To my delight, it's very easy to get great results.  If you don't own a serger/overlocker, just use a short zig-zag on your regular machine.  No stretching as you sew required, as the seam will have enough give to stretch without breaking your stitches.  

For a really smooth finish on the staggered hem and sleeves, I used a twin needle on my regular machine.   If you've never tried this, the results look like the double row of stitching made by an expensive cover-stitch machine.  Angela Wolf explains all in this video.

I've collected together a couple dozen tips on stretch sewing on a pinterest page that you may also be interested in perusing. If you're in a hurry and want " just the facts, ma'am" there's a summary of the most useful tips click on the image below for a  slideshow.

Hope you find lots of instant gratification in this simple but satisfying project.  Happy sewing!

We worry unnecessarily about a lot of trivial things, but "He has made everything beautiful in it's time." ( Ecclesiastes 3:11).  It's just a matter of taking time out  to find the beauty in everyday life...

Before the great cookbook boom, ladies just had a school exercise book with recipes clipped out of the newspaper or fastidiously handwritten.  Grandma Farmer (my mother-in-law) has an exercise book covered in flowery Contact (sticky backed paper), just like her mother had.

Last year, I photographed some pages from this treasured book, printed them on linen at Spoonflower and sewed tea towels.  The real Grandma Farmer has her copy on the side of the fridge, held on by souvenir magnets.  But I use mine to dry dishes!

Spoonflower, the company that prints your own fabric designs, make fabulous personalised gifts.  

This year, I made a cloth gift bag design.  Sew up your own easy Xmas Gift Bag with these simple instructions.

Happy holiday making! 

I tend to call things sewn on my machine handmade, but truly handmade items are handsewn or created with yarn and sticks.  I found the motherlode of true handmakers here in Mackay  when I joined  Mackay Fibre Arts.  Some of these ladies have been meeting and crafting together for 30 years - now that's a long-term friendship!  

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Just some of the group exhibit from Mackay Fibre Arts

They told me they always win first prize for their group exhibit at the Mackay show.  I was a little sceptical when I saw the standard of other entries, but true to form, they did of course take out first prize, closely followed by MFA's sister stitch and patch group.  

Is it any wonder I'm a bit embarassed to show the MFA ladies what I'm working on?  My machine stitching skills are fine but I've still got 30 years to catch up on handsewing!

Lessons from a Tailor is  a short film about concentration camp survivor Martin Greenfield's clothing factory.  One of the last factories in the US employing more than 100 people, his business model is wonderful.  Employees are a family that take pride in their work and environment, a far cry from the soul-less clothing factories in the developing world.  Watch it and weep for the end of an era.

Trying a market stall at Paxtons Night Market here in Mackay this Friday 5:30 to 8:30.  Will bring a bit of everything -  some children's wear, toys and toy bag/mats to collect them up in, simple sewing  projects (ie luggage tags, peg bag) to buy or try, plus clothing patterns to sew up yourself.  Come and say hello if you're a local and love to buy local!

Elke Dress - just a couple of these for sale, but you can always sew your own from our downloadable pattern available at our Etsy store - Clothesline Emporium.

Will have a small range of  hard copies of Clothesline patterns to save you some downloading from the internet, cutting and pasting. They come in a nice sturdy string envelope too!

Perfect gift to stash away for a newborn baby!  The Archie Playsuit was designed by my step-daughter Anna especially for hot weather and ease of dressing.  Yes, instead of pushing unco-operative limbs through the garment, this playsuit opens out  flat and clips on around baby. It's reversible too!  Pattern coming soon, but I have a few prototypes for sale...

What's a market without quirky trinkets like cloth farfalle, tea bags and ravioli?  Make your own, it's fun! Links to tutorials to start you off can be found at our new  Pinterest board. 

Will also bring some samples of dresses made using Clothesline patterns so you can see how simple they are to sew!

All quiet on the Western Front as we've been out of town for the birth of grandson Archie. Here's his little present kit - easy to snap on and off playsuit, new shoes and a whale of a toy.

I love finding second hand aprons and tablecloths embroidered in cross-stitch on gingham. I didn't realise their origins date back as far as the depression.   In those tough times, ladies wanted something pretty and lacy, so embellished plain check fabric with easy cross-stitched designs.  By using the coloured squares judiciously, a lovely result occurs with minimal effort.

Here's the beginning of my efforts using a great tutorial from Riley Blake Designs.

Cross stitch and ric-rac on checkered fabric produced this lovely lacy effect on a thrift store apron.

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Caftans have had some bad publicity!  In Australia, they are inextricably linked with schmaltzy singer Kamahl. The ABC network in Canberra has instigated Caftan Friday, as a joke to poke fun at this classic 70s clothing item.

Rachel Zoe, stylist to...well, just about anyone and everyone... loves her vintage Pucci and Missoni caftans.

Kamahl, simultaneously resplendent and terrifying in a black and gold lame caftan

But stylist Rachel Zoe swears by her beautiful vintage caftans. We know they're comfy but can you wear one if you're not going to the beach? 

Here's a poolside caftan that you could wear anywhere from US retailer Tuckernuck.

Made this caftan in thrift shop finds - a sky blue silk and a white seersucker fabric.

Caftan from Michael Kors.  Christian Dior 2012 resort collection showed a very similar caftan as well.

Thought I'd try sewing a less voluminous, practical caftan to wear even after you've left the pool.  After a few trials, I trimmed back the draping sleeves (to prevent caftan wearers from becoming a fireball at a barbeque) and shortened the hem (to avoid tripping up stairs).

Inspired by a lovely Michael Kors caftan, I made my own version. Photo instructions are here. Downloadable pattern coming soon so you can make your own Seventies caftan! 

Fathers Day was yesterday.  Here's what Mollie the dog gave my husband - a handmade pencil roll (recycled from a teatowel and scrap fabric) to take his gear to school in.  What a clever animal!

Okay, I did help her make this as she doesn't have opposable thumbs.

Was delighted to find one of my dresses being used for advertising TAFE (Technical & Furthur Education) in Queensland.  It also solved one of my major dilemmas.  When I got married last year, one of the forms I had to fill in asked me for my occupation.  Hmmm, had done a few things - graphic design, event styling, visual merchandising- over the last few years.  Finally, I opted for "window dresser."

But now I know my true occupation - "fancy clothes-maker".  Sounds so professional, I know!  May even drop the "fancy" as it sounds a little bit pretentious...

Clothesline's Mary Q pattern is fully lined, so if you make the lining in a fabric you like, your dress is reversible.  Two dresses in one -  beat that for versatility! 

Surprisingly, fully lining a dress is not as difficult as you would think.  Time is saved as you don't need to finish any seams with overlocking / zigzag because all seams are enclosed inside the dress and can't be seen. 

Sewing is straightforward - knowing which seams to join together is the tricky part of lining a garment.  To make it idiot-proof, I've included some short videos online, as it's easier to show this in 3 dimensions, rather than through photos or diagrams.

One little tip -  choose fabrics that are opaque, or you will see the inner fabric showing through.

So next time you spill food/drink on yourself, just whip into a bathroom and turn your dress inside out! 

Inspired by Mary Quant and all things sixties, Clothesline presents the Mary Q Shift dress pattern. This classic style is listed in Erin McKean's field guide to the most iconic styles of our time, "The Hundred Dresses." 

Traditionally worn as short as you dare, Clothesline's Mary Q pattern has extra length added.  Feel free to adjust the skirt length to suit yourself!

In true classic style, a version of the Mary Quant dress can be updated and in fashion at any time as these 2014 versions show.

L to R.  Original Mary Quant shifts from the 1960s, 2014 Mulberry campaign, 2014 Alice& Olivia Spring/summer collection

The Mary Q Shift pattern is:-

*fully lined   *reversible  *adapted to longer skirt lengths.  Not everyone has the legs for a mini skirt!  This pattern has been made a little longer (knee length on me at 160cm (5'3") tall) so that you can cut it to a length you're comfortable with.

*easy to sew for all levels.  Great seamstresses can use the one-page cheat sheet for instructions.  If you like more visuals, there are 16 colour photos and on-line explanations.  For raw beginners, tricky parts have an accompanying video to spell it out in detail.

Instant download pattern available at our Etsy store - Clothesline Emporium- for just $5.50 AUD.

L to R:  Mary Q Pattern Cover, Mary Q Cheat Sheet, Online Instructions, Online Videos.